By PHK
Neither. Best bets? September or May.

What is it about foreign classical archeologists that compel them to write travel articles or even an occasional book about modern Greece? If they’d stick to their expertise on the ruins, excavations and the history they know so well and describe them in laymen’s terms, terrific. Otherwise, short trips to Athens to attend conferences – while making a little money by writing travel pieces on the side - just do not compute.
That’s - at any rate - how Justin Marozzi’s “Democracy in Action” which dominates page 17 of the “Life and Arts” section of the August 4-5, 2007 Financial Times struck me.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m a fan of the Financial Times including and especially its weekly “Life and Arts Section.” But to publish such a strange article on this world famous city written by a neophyte – who tells us that he never set eyes on the city until after the 2004 Olympics and who bases his FT feature story on a single week’s visit last November just . . . well doesn’t compute.
The FT could do a lot better. It normally does.
You’d think the paper would have tapped any number of seasoned British writers who know Greece like the back of their hands and could have come up with a more insightful story for travelers destined for Greece. There’s been a large ex-pat community in Athens for decades after all.
Avoid November
Meanwhile, for anyone contemplating a trip to Greece, avoid November. Its only redeeming feature is the smell of roasting chestnuts from the sidewalk vendors that permeates the early evening air.
November prices may be right: but there’s a reason. Athens in November is often cold, damp, and overcast as opposed to the crisper, but still warm September days or the country’s velvet spring.
In November, the sea can be choppy and even Crete can be clammy and unpleasant. The good news is that there are fewer tourists in November – except for the intrepid ones who come on bargain basement tours that often also include Egypt and Israel where the weather is far better that time of year. These are the some of the same tourists who are herded to the Acropolis whether or not they want to clamber on its rocks. Too often, they then display their ignorance for everyone in earshot even when excellent Greek guides lay it out in plain English for them.
The ‘highlight’ of “Democracy in Athens”
Marozzi’s description of such an American tourist group being addressed by an ever more exasperated Greek tour guide is priceless. It’s the highlight of his article. His reported exchange between two tourists and their guide would be hilarious – if it weren’t so sad. It demonstrates once again the sub-basement quality of the US educational system and the lack of worldly and historical inquisitiveness of too many of our citizens.
Or maybe the Acropolis just brings out the worst in some people. During a visit there over Easter 1966, I overheard a similar American tour group being lectured by their American preacher. The lecturer – I won’t call him a guide - expounded loudly and in great detail about the importance of a pile of non-descript rocks in the foreground. His flock was reverently informed that that was where Paul had preached to the Athenians. Meanwhile, the preacher blissfully, or ignorantly, ignored the incredible setting, the spectacular sunset and the Acropolis’ primary significance to the classical and modern worlds.
Summer in Athens is also far from ideal.
Hot sandy winds blow north from the expanding Sahara. They fan fires in the surrounding hills and make life generally uncomfortable - sometimes even gritty. This year, the fires came early. But that’s why Greeks often head for the islands or the shore – and stay there until August is over. The Assumption Day August 15 holiday translates into a deserted city devoid of the usual jostling, boisterous crowds. The heart and soul of the city have, for good reason, temporarily moved elsewhere.
In Athens, November means prices are at rock bottom – although that bottom is a lot higher than before Greece joined the EURO club. Autumn’s softer prices probably still include those at the Monastiraki Flea Market – a favorite tourist haunt just below the Acropolis and across from the Ancient Agora. Bargaining there helps – and speaking even a little Modern Greek can open doors.

Getting to know Athens from the spectacular roof top terrace of the King George II Hotel on Syntagma Square or via short breaks snuck from an apparently incredibly dull conference at the British School of Archeology as Marozzi did hardly provides adequate acquaintanceship with or knowledge of the real flavor of the place. The Getty photograph of the Acropolis that accompanies the FT article, by the way, was not taken from either and the BSA website indicates that accommodations are limited to 20 members at a time. They’re certainly not available to everyone.
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